Search "Seoul hanok village" and you get both of these in the same page of results: Bukchon and Ikseondong, a short walk apart, both rows of tile-roofed houses. They are not the same kind of place. One still has people living behind those roofs, in numbers small enough that the city now limits when you can walk through with a camera. The other lost a fight with a demolition crew, and what's there now is cafés. I've been to both. In both, what I did was walk into a café or a restaurant and sit down. That's a smaller claim than "I know these neighborhoods," and I want to be upfront about the gap it leaves, because it matters for one thing I'm about to tell you plainly: I have never seen Bukchon's visiting-hour rule in effect. No sign, no cutoff, no moment of being told to leave. It's real, and it's documented by the city, but it isn't part of what I personally experienced there. So here's what this piece actually does: it ex...
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