If you're in Korea right now and a lot of doors look shut, that's not a glitch in your trip. Today is Chuseok, the middle day of Korea's three-day holiday, and a good share of what's closed is closed for the same reason my own front door was locked earlier this morning: I was behind it, doing charye. I'm not going to walk you through what that looked like. I'd rather stop there than invent a scene nobody asked me to describe. What I can do is something the Instagram cards couldn't: tell you about the door from the side I was actually standing on, then hand you the same facts everyone needs for the rest of today and tomorrow. Here's the honest limit on that, too. I have never seen a foreigner in Korea during Chuseok, not this year and not before. So I'm not going to guess what your holiday looks like from where you're standing. I can only tell you what mine looked like from where I was, then hand off to what's actually running, closed,...
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